Our requirements were: there must not be any holes under the
waterline, the iron must look as it would have been fitted by
the shipyard and the iron must be the same thickness as the
support for the forestay.
2. The fitting of
the iron was done on land. We had to do some serious drilling in
the bow which really did not feel fun at all.
3. To drill
through the epoxy wasn't that difficult and same goes for
cutting the threads for the bolts. We started by marking
one hole at the time, drilling a small guide hole and then a
bigger one in three stage so we got a nice hole step by step and
avoided cracking the epoxy or getting the drill stuck.
When cutting the threads, put some bees wax on the thread cutter
and the work will be quite smooth.
4. All screw holes
and edges of the iron were sealed with SIKA-flex
most serious problem occurred when we drilled the most upper
hole on the iron, which was the last hole. The problem was that
there is a thick aluminium reinforcement plate and the
small drill bit we used got stuck in the plate and broke off!!
It took us hours to drill through the piece of drill bit in the
hole which almost resulted in a third world war at home. Try to
not use anything thinner than 4-5mm drill bit.
6. As we had planned to buy a Code Zero sail and we knew that it
a stronger strut we asked the black smith to weld the strut
fitting onto the bow iron. This way we avoided a couple of extra
holes and hopefully got a stronger solution. The old strut was
reinforced with a second tube inside and then welded to the
If you have sharp eyes you can see on this picture that the
upper hex bolt is actually larger than the lower one. We asked
the blacksmith to use one of the old M10 holes so we would
have one stronger point above the welded strut fitting. The
other bolts were all M8 size. On the inside we added washers and