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Impovements by other Hanse 370-owners

On this side we show improvements done by other Hanse 370 owners. If you like to have your pictures shown on this page please mail them to me on marco@cdg.nu. Please also include a text/description that you want to go with the picture. As there are probably people who like to know more about what you have done I suggest that you also share your e-mail information.

About file nameing: firstname_lastname_picturenumber.jpg (marco_christensen_01.jpg) alternatively myhansenickname_picturenumber.jpg (marco_01.jpg


Nickname on MyHanse: Silversailor
Boat name: S/V Legacy
Modell: 2006 Hanse 370e, hull #9
Location: South Haven, MI. USA
Click here!


1. Starboard Lazarette, hull side: two additional shelfes was constructed, glassed in and then painted. Allows significantly better use of this large space.


2. Starboard Lazarette, cockpit side: a 1" x 4" piece of wood was glassed in (just below the lazarette opening) and painted. Then line holders were attached. Allows neat storage of  docklines, spinnaker sheets, extra halyard, etc.


3. Edson Cockpit Table (closed and stored). Made of starboard. Heavy, solid and no maintenance. Easy to stores or erect. I've had teak tables in the past but wanted to avoid the maintenance.

4. Edson Cockpit Table (up with leaves closed).


5. Edson Cockpit Table (up with leaves open).

6. Drink/Binoc Holder. (See #7,8 for mounting clamps.) Also made of starboard. Not as heavily made as I would like but it does the job. I like the way the two end holders allow for a mug with a handle.


7 & 8. Raymarine MFD (Multi Function Display). Mounted using a unique system designed by my electronics installer that allows the display to swivel about 55 degrees either left or right (to allow viewing from every helm position) and to tilt up or down. Also shows small storage area created in binnacle where Simrad multi had originally been installed.


9. Raymarine 7000 Autopilot Display.Port side. Also shows winch handle holder for easy reach for genoa trimmer.

10.Winch Handle Holder (starboard).

11. Simrad Wind & Multi Displays.  Mounted on starboard bulkhead (see #12) to be visable to all.

12. Simrad Displays plus Line holders. Starboard bulkhead. Line holders are Beneteau product. I replace the shock cord annually since it deteriorates in the sun. I've used these for 8 years and they work well to keep lines in place and readily accessible. When sailing (after raising the main) I remove the mainsheet (black with white fleck) from the line holder, take 4 wraps around the winch and open the main sheet clamp. In this way, the main sheet is immediately available for required adjustments.

13. Line holder Buttons (close up).  Starboard.




14. Custom Companionway Doors (closed). Screens with acrylic inserts (shown). I re-screened this year and used a heavy duty screening recommended for homes which have pets. At the beginning of every season I remove the heavy acrylic drop board that was original equipment and replace with these doors. They remain in place until I haul Legacy in October.

15. Custom Companion Doors (open).


16. Bimini. Made of the same Sunbrella like material that my sail drop was made of. Well constructed with stainless. This bimini was not made to fold. When we race I pull the pins supporting the cross bars on the right and left side, compress the frame and wrap a few bungy cords around it to hold it in place. If I did it again I would have one built which could fold.

17. Dodger. Non-folding. The center clear section unzips for more airflow. Clear plastic wing inserts are available for the left and right. Also well made with stainless tubing.

18. Harken 46ST Classic. Added port and starboard. Needed to handle the kevlar 155 genoa that we fly under 10K.

19. Garhauer Adjustable genoa Blocks.  Added this season.  They make a significant difference especially if you race.  Garhauer equipment is very well made. Heavy duty and long lasting.  Not as "sophisticated" as Harken but considerably less expensive. Great customer service.

20. Garhauer Mainsheet Block.  Added for additional purchase on the main sheet.  Simple, excellent addition.

21. Harken traveler Blocks.  Added for additional purchase on the traveler.  Simple, excellent addition.

22. Amsteel line with Block on Backstay.  Again, increased purchase.  Another simple, excellent addition.


23. New rub rail and Harken MK IV Furler, Expandable Whisker Pole, Pole Chocks.  Furler added this spring as a result of damaged forestay.  Decide to upgrade furler at same time that we were replacing forestay.  Excellent decision.  Much less windage, easier furling.

I added the rub rail about four years ago. It's a solid profile. Very hard. Comes with screw holes drilled about every 4 inches (100 mm) for easy placement and installation. Great addition. 

24.  Harken Mk IV (closeup).

Nickname on MyHanse: iemand
Boat name: S/V Sprookje
Modell: 2007 Hanse 370e, hull #193
Location: Stralsund, Germany
Contact: Click here!

01. Modified Calira Panel with Philippi Battery Monitor incl. Tank Monitor

02. HA Genoa tracks

03. Starboard locker modified to additional cabin (dual usage)

04. 12" Simrad NX45 Plotter on modified steering column and Composit 150cm Wheel


05. Coffee Bar

06. Coffee Bar

07. Harken under deck Furler with new anchor arm also for gennaker / Code 0

08. Instruments above companion way

Nickname on MyHanse: Fendant
Boat name: Gioia IV
Modell: Hanse 345
Location: Lake Constance (Bodensee), Germany
Contact: Click here!

 01. Protection for the Navigation Seat. It is simple hood over the upholstery

 02. Extension of the Würth Panel for a remote Charger controller and a Battery controller.
I have also added conventional tank gauges as the ones used for the Würth panel are crap

03. Organizing the anchor locker. It is a simple closed cell non water absorbent PVC sheet (Forex ), with a ring holder for the spare gas bottle. This prevents dock lines or the anchor buoy to fall into the chain storage.

Nickname on MyHanse: H370-Snigelhus
Boat name: Snigelhus
Modell: Hanse 370
Location: Hamburg, Germany
Contact: Click here!
The switch panel and the radio were unfavorably installed on a solid plate of the boats electrical section. To reach the electrical connections you had to remove entirely both doors and hinges of the electrical section. Only then the plate could be removed.
From the following photographs it will be clear that a new installed plate is easy to open due to a snap mechanism.
By the new and better arrangement there is more space for new installations. The electrical connections can be reached quickly and trouble-free.

01. Lock of new plate

02. Open plate looking inwards

03. Final state with new arrangement


Nickname on MyHanse: SamsonII
Boat name: SamsonII
Modell: Hanse 370e 2006 #41
Location: Nærsnes, Norway
Contact: Click here!

I have copied the backstay setup presented by Marco on this excellent page. I took som pictuers of the process. First I made a dummy rig to make all the measurements. I got the numbers from Marco, but wanted to do an extra check. I did som testing on the boat of the setup to see how much movement the upper block would have. Result was approx. 120 mm.

01. Max and min tension marked at the upper bloc kon the rig.

02. I pulled max to see how much movement the setup would give me.

03. The rig in my garden! (cheap rope used for testing)

04. Minimum tension

05. Maximum tension

The splicing of the block-end of the ropes were done at home. The other ends in the boat. I used a brummel lock splice. I followed  the instructions here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WW7Qvg3VjI  I quickly realized that dyneema is hard to cut. So I have now purchased this fine tool from D-Splicer: https://d-splicer.com/d-16-scissors-2/

01. Ready for splicing the dyneema.

Splicing the Harken Carbo block.

Inserting the tail. I used a piece of wood to mark measurements for convenience.


05. All blocks spliced

Installed on the boat.

I used 8 mm toggels to fix the long ropes, and a doubble rope for the trippel block with cam. The toggles was not in place when I took the picture – I used a knot to fix things in place for a quick test.


The 6:1  purchase with red 6mm dyneema

Nickname on MyHanse: Lefty
Boat name: Zanzibar
Modell: Hanse 370e
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Click here!

01. The Bow thruster was fitted on the boat when it was bought so we do not have much information about it. As you can see its a tunnel and not a "drop-down" bow thruster.

02. The brand is Vetus and the model is a 60kp thruster. Similar as this one at Erlanddsons Brygga in Sweden http://www.erlandsonsbrygga.se/BOGPROPELLER_VETUS_4_2HK,_55KP?id=07042


Nickname on MyHanse: CaraMia
Boat name: Cara Mia
Modell: Hanse 370
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
Click here!

01. Since we had problems with the water on the toilet floor which flowed from the drain rather than to it when we had a shower, I spackled the floor to get a slope against the drain and put on a Flexiteek-carpet.

I started to pour water on the floor to find the right levels and see how much spackle it would take. With 6 liters of water the level was horizontal so with 7 liters of spackle I got some slope.

Then I grinded the floor with sandpaper and washed it with acetone. After that I made the 2 long wooden wedges to use as templates for the spackle. I laid the wedges as far apart as possible and spackled the area between the wedges. When the spackle had stiffened, I removed the wedges and filled the gutters that remained.

On the advice of Nils Malmgren AB I used their epoxyspackle NM Elastic 705. Then I made a paper template that I gave to Marindesign AB, who manufactured the Flexiteek-carpet.  Now it just remains to glue it.


02. After the gluing of the carpet.

03. New Hanse original Sprayhood and cockpit cover.
Now we have sewed in more and larger windows and at the same time had them washed, impregnated and sewn over all seams. Now it is very brightly and nice in the cockpit and hopefully we can now keep the Sprayhood and cockpit cover for a number of years.


04. I have always been annoyed with the external rail bases for the cockpit cover and have finally replaced them with internal bases.

Nickname on MyHanse: Borjebus
Boat name: Bäsk
Modell: Hanse 370e
Location: Fiskebäckskil, Sweden
Click here!

Some of the improvements made on former S/Y Hutschlange, now S/Y BÄSK.

S/Y Hutschlange was very much used for racing. After we acquired her in 2014 we re-named her to S/Y BÄSK and made some modifications for cruising.

1. We installed a bow thruster (RMC Swingthruster) and an aft platform including cassette ladder and it was worth every penny. In the picture you can see the three pieces of teak we added to the aft “deck” and how we used a lot of heavy stuff while gluing it.
The anchor davit was extended to enable it to be turned upside down when anchor not in use. It was also reinforced and equipped with a support in order to withstand the forces when the anchor is lifted.

2. In 2015 we decided to replace all exterior textile and ordered from Kapell & Annat, in dark blue color, a sprayhood, a cockpit tent, a lazybag (in one piece, no separate mast part) and a pedestal cover.
Really good looking! In the picture you can also see the gybe break, mounted after an unintended gybe that almost broke my arm.


3. We needed quite a big cockpit table. We made a sketch and had a carpenter to make it in teak. The brackets for the pedestal is standard one from Hjertmans and the support leg comes from IKEA.
Pros: Looks nice, plenty of space, and fits exactly on the floor of  the port storage.
Cons: The weight could be less.

CM1500/230/EURO | Carroll & Meynell, 1.5kVA CM Single Phase Isolation  Transformer, 230V ac | RS Components

4. As we have the boat in water also during winter and we use shore power in our home harbor we need an isolation transformer to ensure the boat in not harmed by vagabond current. As it is a quite heavy device we wanted to place it on the starboard side, towards the front. We ended up using the frontmost small storage under the starboard couch. In order to get the cables to/from the transformer we had to remove both the storage in front of the sink, and the battery box. The solution is good and didn’t cost too much money. The only disappointment is perhaps the 50 Hz “noise”. 

Link to the product, Click here!

Picture borrowed from RS Components AB


The hour counter in the rpm meter stopped showing hours also for us. Albin Motor helped us to get a new, Italian one, that Yanmar guaranteed to work. In order to get the new one to show the correct hours (628) I made a small pulse generator, connected it to the new rpm meter and ran it for 628 hours in the winter (at home). We also replaced the plastic front so now the motor control panel looks as new.

We talked about my problem with installing 230V to the front cabin. The picture shows what it looks like behind the port wardrobe in the front cabin.
There are many screws to remove, do not forget the hinges, but then you can pull out the entire closet and put in the bin. Note that the "ceiling" remains - it is not part of the closet.

Ventilation of the refrigeration compressor is a recurring topic on myhanse.com. I have, so far, only put grilles in the cupboard and in the door.

Would think that there will be fan-driven ventilation before the next season, and possibly new supply cables (just read about someone who got a voltage drop due to irritated cables) with good area.

We replaced the old Simrad DS34 with a B&G Vulcan and to make a new Navpod to fit we hade to modify the pedestal pipes. The result is really nice. At the same time we replaced the GPS antenna with a B&G ZT 100 containing both GPS receiver and a compass. This gives us fine redundancy for GPS and compass.

 We have also replaced the old, analogue, speed/temp sensor with a new Airmar speed/depth/temp sensor with NMEA 2000 connection. Unfortunately some of the old instruments refuse to read speed from this sensor. If I can’t succeed we will have to replace some IS12 instruments with B&G Triton

5. Last summer we had an incident. In shallow waters we went aground. In less than 3 knots we hit a rock. I almost succeeded to steer away but unfortunately we hit in about 45 degree angle. One meter more and we would have been clear. It was bad seamanship to sail in these waters – I trusted my plotter too much, and when the fix point disappeared (has happened many times) I was lost.

Luckily we had no visible damages on the inside and no leakage. We lifted the boat and noticed that the joint between steel and lead was damaged due to the 45 angle crash. It seems as the top of the lead part had a lot of iron that was rusty (brown) and un-solid. No workshop could repair but Hanse in Greifswald made a new keel.

The keel is now equipped with a “bumper” called Keel Pro as extra safety in the future. It also renders a discount on the insurance fee.

The previous owner replaced a lot of blocks to Harken ones, and we have continued these upgrades. In order to get rid of the weak Lewmar block for main halyard we made new 14 mm pins with 8 mm holes.

The base plate was removed and we drilled the pin holes to 14 mm. With 8 mm pin holes we had a lot of nice blocks to choose from.

What I did was:
1) I removed the mast base plate. On my boat there are nuts on the other side of the 6 machine screws, so I had to remove the inner ceiling. Be careful when you lever the base plate. The Sikaflex makes it sit very tight and you need quite some force to get it lose.

2) I drilled all the bolt holes up to 14 mm, plus some margin.

3) I manufactured new 14 mm bolts with 8 mm hole.

4) When I re-attached the base plate I secured that no Sikaflex touched the lower part of the bolts – I actually put some grease there.

5) With 8 mm holes for all bolts I could replace the blocks I needed to increase in size.

The damages on my base plate was not near the ones we can see in the pictures above (Samuel), and my boat is a 370 that has gone offshore racing. Nothing is stronger than the weakest link of the chain, and in my case I believe it’s now the base plate material that is the weakest part.

Sparcraft offered another solution, see picture below, where the bolts are replaced with stainless steel rails. For this solution you can use standard blocks with shackles. The problem on my boat is that the blocks comes too high and the sheets don’t come under the garage (bad angle).


Nickname on MyHanse: lovind
Boat name: Lovinda II
Modell: Hanse 370, 2008
Location: Kristiansand, Norway
Click here!

New drawer in saloon, EUR50 upgrade:

Drawer button lock, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813840348.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.69354c4dXNKgqp

IKEA drawer, https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/maximera-skuff-hoy-hvit-20319361/

 The existing box is not wide enough for the 60cm drawer, so some modifications and adjustments are needed when mounting the drawer runners.


Nickname on MyHanse: ??
Boat name: ??
Modell: Hanse ??
Location: ??
Click here!

Would you like to present your improvements here? Please het in contact with me on marco@cdg.nu