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(C) C.D.G 2009-2023

Uppdated 2023-01-29

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Improvements on Hanse 400 Fragancia

 

Nickname on MyHanse: Jeb
Boat name: Fragancia
Modell: Hanse 400e
Location: Sweden, Västerås
Contact: Click here!

Text and pictures (C) Jesper Bergsjö 2021

Guardrail gates
When our Hanse400e was ordered back in 2006 the original owner hesitated to spend 1 000€ extra on guardrail gates. We have missed those, especially when moored long side at a jetty.

To do this upgrade I needed the following material:

4 pcs Gate stanchion –
https://www.hjertmans.se/produkter/inredning-dacksutrustning/mantag-pulpit/pulpit/sidopulpit-hojd-61-bredd-32cm
6 pcs stanchion base  -
https://hrmarin.se/hanse-products/pfeiffer-mantagsfot/
8 pcs fork terminal -
https://www.hjertmans.se/produkter/ankring-linor/wire-staende-rigg/wirepressning/gaffelandstycke-4mm-mantag-s-inkl-pressning
4 pcs Turnbuckle, Fork / Termina - 
https://www.hjertmans.se/produkter/ankring-linor/wire-staende-rigg/wirepressning/vantskruvsterminal-4mm-inkl-pressning

4 pcs wire terminal - https://www.hjertmans.se/produkter/ankring-linor/wire-staende-rigg/wireterminal/terminal-m6-for-wire-4mm
4 pcs pelican hook - https://www.hjertmans.se/produkter/inredning-dacksutrustning/mantag-pulpit/mantagswire-tillbehor/pelikanhake-m6
6 additional M10 bolts including washers and nut.
Total cost was around the 1 000€ the first owner saved.
 

01. I started off by exposing the nuts for the original stanchion that must be removed. In the head it was possible to remove the trim above the looker (screws from below). Above the shower I had to cut the sealant (Sikaflex), remove a few screws and carefully bend the panel down.
This gave me access to the existing nut as well as the area where the new foots should be mounted.
 

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02. On the galley side it was a little bit worse access. I first removed the inner ceiling behind the sofa (after removing the mahogany trim), and then cut away a small piece of the bulkhead  to get access.
 

03. The trickiest part was above the galley. First, I tried to remove the inner ceiling but there was trim (glued in place) at both bulkheads preventing this. The solution was to loosen it and then create a gap with some wooden wedges. To be able to hold the nuts (bolts were tightened from the deck) I made a special tool, basically a long extension for my 17mm wrench to reach behind the ceiling panel. The nut was then fixed in the wrench with masking tape.
 

 

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04. I repaired the holes from the removed stanchion base with fiberglass putty and then grinded down approx. 1mm with my Dremmel. I finished by adding gelcoat putty that was sanded in steps and finally rubbed. The gelcoat below the old stanchion base was whiter than the rest of the deck, but the stock RAL9003 gelcoat was a perfect match.
 

05. Next step was to drill new holes for the new stanchion bases. I took measures from the Gate stanchion but when I should mount the first one it did not fit. The root cause was a slightly bend on the gate stanchion (probably from the welding) and I needed to fill and make new holes slightly more separated. I worked out the exact distance by test mounting on my work bench. For final installation I had to press it apart with a reversed clamp.

Another issue was that the new gate stanchions were made from 1 inch (25,4mm) pipe while the original ones were made of 25mm. The plastic tubes did not fit so I had to sand away a few tenths of a mm from the inside.
 

06. Finally, I took measures and had my rigger rework the rail wires.

The finished result was very good and long side mooring is now much easier.

This job was done on a Hanse 400e from 2006, but the same method should work on 2007 (and maybe later models) as well as Hanse 370.

Jesper Bergsjö 2021-12-28
Sweden