Anchor well inspection
hatch
When we realized
that the bolts holding the bowsprit were not fitted with washers and
nuts we knew we had a problem of the most uncomfortable kind. As you all
know drilling holes in our boat is not the most enjoyable thing. But we
had to choose between loosing the bowsprit when sailing with the code
zero or keeping it on the boat intact. The decision was quite easy and
later on the inspection hatch came in handy when we fitted the anchor
chain striker plate and needed to tighten the nuts inside the boat. We
also added washers and nuts to the front chain
plate just in case.
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1.
1. The inside of the
anchor well, still virgin country at this stage.
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2. Tape
the inspection hatch frame backwards to the front of the anchor well.
Measure then remeasure and fix it with more tape.
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3. When you are sure that
you have centred the frame, draw a circle inside the frame. |
4. Remove the frame
and check that the circle is still in the middle of the front bulkhead.
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5. Since we did not have a proper
saw (and necessary space) we used a 35 mm hole saw and started to drill.
We drilled on purpose outside the black marking as the marking was done
inside the frame.
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6. Continue drilling... |
7. ...until
you have drilled out the whole centre of the marked area. |
8. Use a rotating
file (bur) in a drill or something similar and start to remove the
excess material till the frame fits the hole. Make the hole slightly
larger than the frame just in case there is any movement around the
frame.
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9. Since the
lid will press the frame outwards a little, try dry fitting the lid and
then adjust the edges of the hole if necessary. When everything is
perfect, add Sika-flex (or similar) on the frame and fit the frame in
the hole. Don't forget to put Sika-flex in the screw holes. Use a mirror
inside the inspection hole to check that the Sika is sealing around the
frame and use your finger dipped into water with some washing detergent
to smooth the Sika if necessary. |
Material
The inspection
hatch is a standard 26 cm hatch. We chose to fit the biggest possible so
we could be able to put in one arm fully and reach the bolts and screws
under the deck. We think putting in a smaller hatch would just not be
the same. A bigger hatch gave us also the possibilty to reach the
bowsprit bolts that is sligtly to the aft of the boat, on both sides of
the anchorbox.. |
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Protection
for the windlass remote connector lid
If you have the same installation och remote connector to your Lewmar
windlass in the anchor well as we do then you probably have experienced
the pain that comes when you hit the lid with your bare legs. After
several less successfull solutions we found finally one that has
som war worked out quite well. We bougt a tube ending in natural rubber
that just happends to fit the jagged lid perfectly. Its the same kind of
tube ends used on chair legs.
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1. The legg killing remote
controll lid
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2. A tube ending in rubber
solved the |
3. The final result in an
overview. |
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